Tips and Inspiration for your European holiday

Postcard-worthy villages tend to feature heavily on my European itineraries so it was with great anticipation that I headed to Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Germany. Situated at the north end of the aptly named ‘Romantic Road’, a 410-kilometre tourist drive which passes through irresistibly pretty villages, Rothenburg more than lived up to its reputation as a charming fairytale town.


If you’re wondering what the main things to do in Rothenburg are and why you should visit, read on!


Rothenburg ob der Tauber GermanyThe fairytale town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a photographer's dream. ©Rothenburg Tourismus Service


My introduction to Rothenburg came as we drove through the narrow, cobbled streets on the way to our hotel, the Herrnschlösschen (click here to check current prices), which was perfectly situated right in the heart of the Old Town. 


Ducking through the archway of one of the town’s original fortified gates I held my breath as we bumped over the cobblestones and gasped with delight at the town’s pastel coloured, half-timbered buildings. This is a town with serious charm!


After checking in to our hotel, we wasted no time in setting off to explore Rothenburg. Even though it was a weekday, the Old Town was bustling with people all, like us, eager to immerse themselves in what looked like a movie set.

 

 


Things to do in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Old Town and Markplatz

Taking pride of place in the centre of Rothenburg ob der Tauber’s Old Town is Marktplatz, a large cobbled square lined with beautifully preserved Medieval buildings.


At the heart sits the Rothenburg Town Hall that dates back to 1250 and features two architectural styles, Gothic and Renaissance.


The Town Hall’s 52-metre high tower can be seen from all over town and, if you’re prepared to climb the 220 narrow steps to the top, it offers the most
spectacular views over the red rooftops of Rothenburg. 


I’m not one for heights and admit to feeling a little nervous at the top but the views more than made up for my unease.

>> Entrance to the City Tower is €2.50 per adult. Due to limited space, only 20 people can access the tower at a time so allow plenty of time is this is one of your top things to see in Rothenburg.  The Tower is open daily from April to October and at limited times during the rest of the year. <<


View of Tauber Valley from Rothenburg City TowerA great view of the Tauber Valley from Rothenburg City Tower.


It’s at the entrance to the Town Hall that you can join the Nightwatchman’s tour each evening, too.  (More details below.)


Surrounding Marktplace are an abundance of pastel coloured houses, cafes and tempting shops selling everything from the usual souvenirs to local specialties like the Schneeball.


This ball of biscuit dough comes flavoured with all manner of tastes from apple and cinnamon to champagne and truffles and everything in between.


It’s also in Markplatz that the annual Rothenburg Christmas Market has been held since the 15th century. Known as the Reiterlesmarkt, the market features plenty of stalls selling handcrafted souvenirs and gifts, mulled wine and delicious Christmas treats.


You can read more about the Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Market on this link.


Marktplatz Rothenburg ob der TauberPretty Marktplatz is surrounded by well-preserved pastel-coloured buildings.


Plönlein

One of the things that had attracted me to Rothenburg was a small yellow house that I had seen adorning the pages of many travel brochures over the years.  Of course, I had to see it for myself!


In Plönlein, a small square, a distinctive yellow half-timbered house sits alongside both the Siebers Tower and the Kobolzeller Gate, and it is the epitome of German charm. 


With its bright blue shutters, flower boxes brimming with blooms and a small fountain at the front, there could hardly be a prettier house.  Add to the scene a red roofed tower on either side and cobblestones at your feet, it’s not hard to see why visitors from all over the world flock to Rothenburg. 


I waited until the crowds dispersed and snapped away.


Rothenburg ob der Tauber PlonleinIt's easy to see why Plonlein is one of Germany's most photographed squares. ©Rothenburg Tourismus Service


Kathe Wohlfahrt's Rothenburg Christmas store

Without doubt, one of the town’s most famous attractions is Kathe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Village and the German Christmas Museum


Thanks to the lovely team at Rothenburg Tourism, I was given a ‘press’ pass that allowed me to take photos inside - a very special treat as the Rothenburg Christmas Museum and shop are out of this world! 


The Christmas Museum
in Rothenburg traces the history of German Christmas celebrations and includes displays of all kinds of Christmas paraphernalia including cards, Advent calendars, trees, music boxes, decorations, Santas and much more.


Housed in the same building is the Christmas Village, the most famous Rothenburg Christmas shop.  This is a shop so chock-full of Christmas decorations it will make even the most avid Christmas-hater become a raving fan. 


Just like a child writing his list for Santa, I found myself mentally noting all the things I’d like to add to my shopping basket. The only problem - how do I get them all home? 


I did contribute to the local economy, though, with a gorgeous Santa and his sleigh accompanying me all the way to Australia from the Rothenburg Christmas store! 

>> The German Christmas Museum is open daily between 10am and 5pm from 1 April to 23 December with special entry times on some additional dates. Entry is €4 per adult and €2 for children 6-11 years <<


Allow at least half an hour to browse the exhibits and another half an hour to wander amongst the amazing selection of decorations in the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village (shop).


(You can see more photos from the Christmas Village and German Christmas Museum here.)


Rothenburg Christmas MuseumThe Christmas Museum and shop will have even the most avid Christmas-hater feeling festive!


St. Jacob’s Church

On Church Square, you’ll find St. Jacob’s Church, whose twin towers dominate the skyline. Completed in 1485 after 173 years of construction, the church was initially Catholic but later became a Protestant church.  It is still the main church in Rothenburg today.


Most visitors are drawn to St. Jacob’s Church to see the stained glass windows and two altars, in particular the intricately carved Altar of the Holy Blood by Tilman Riemenschneider, which dates back to 1499.


Wurzburg woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider produced the piece, which represents The Last Supper, between 1499 and 1505 and it is widely regarded as one of the finest examples of his work. 


With the addition of the Riemenschneider Altar, Rothenburg’s St. Jacob’s Church  received an incredible treasure that is still marvelled at today.


The church is open daily. A €2 per adult entry fee allows access to St. Jacob’s Church.


St Jacobs Church RothenburgThe twin spires of St Jacobs Church can be seen from afar. ©Rothenburg Tourismus Service


Rothenburg City Walls and Gates

Rothenburg’s fortified 12th-century city walls stretch right around the historic town centre and even today you can still walk along almost the whole 2.5 kilometre length. 


In medieval times the 42 towers and numerous gates of the city walls protected the town from invaders and provided excellent lookout points beyond the town.  The views from the west side of the Rothenburg wall at Kobolzell Gate (Kobolzelltor) overlook the beautiful Tauber Valley.


As you stroll around town and along the walls, you’ll notice that more of the main gates of the city walls remain standing today.  Amongst them is Roder Gate (Rodertor), a former toll booth and gatekeeper’s cottage which has the only lookout tower along the city walls.


It was badly damaged in an Allied air raid in 1945 but was rebuilt soon after the war.  A small museum in the tower (open daily from March to October and December) documents the destruction with aerial photographs from the time.


Rothenburg city wallsWalking along the city walls helps you to appreciate what life must have been like in the Middle Ages.


Rothenburg Night Watchman's Tour

If you are fortunate enough to be staying in Rothenburg ob der Tauber overnight, I highly recommend you join the Night Watchman’s tour.


We joined the one hour tour, which operates each evening from mid-March to early January, and thoroughly enjoyed it. 


Dressed in a black cape and broad-brimmed hat and carrying a lantern, the Nightwatchman leads tourists around town, pointing out places of interest and explaining their place in Rothenburg’s history.


With his entertaining style, the Nightwatchman had everyone in fits of laughter as he regaled us with stories from the past and this is definitely one of the most fun things to do in Rothenburg,
Germany.

>> The Nightwatchman’s Tour runs nightly at 8pm from mid-March to early January. The one hour tour costs €8 per adult, children under 12 years are free. Wait at the front of the Town Hall in Marktplatz for the Nightwatchman to appear! <<


TIP: If you will only be in town during the day, the Tourist Office also runs Rothenburg ob der Tauber walking tours tours at 2pm.


rothenburg nightwatchman


Rothenburg Castle

Whilst the Rothenburg Castle no longer exists - it is thought that an earthquake in Switzerland destroyed the castle in 1356 - a garden now sits on the site of the Hohenstaufen imperial castle.


The park is designed in the style of an English garden and offers some of the most spectacular views of both the Old Town and the Tauber Valley.


You can find the Castle Garden at the end of Herrngasse.


burggarten rothenburgThe tranquil Castle garden offers a peaceful place to relax and take in the views over the town.


Medieval Crime Museum
 

Another of the popular Rothenburg attractions is the Medieval Crime Museum (Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum) which explores the history of crime and punishment from the late Middle Ages to the 19th-century. 


On display are a collection of historical documents and photographs along with various tools used in medieval times for torture and punishment, masks of disgrace that gossips were forced to wear, chastity belts and more.


There’s also a special exhibition about witch hunts in Europe.

>> The Rothenburg Crime Museum is open daily year round. Entry fee: Adults 7.00, children 6 years and older 3.50. <<


Historical Vaults

In the twelve dungeons below the Town Hall, the Historical Vaults museum provides an insight into life during the Thirty Years War. Military equipment including uniforms, weapons, guns and flags are on display.


One of the twelve dungeons, the Imperial Dungeon, is considered Rothenburg’s oldest prison and it houses a
guardhouse, a torture room and three jail cells.

>> The museum is open daily 1 April to 1 November, weekends only during the rest of the year. Entry fee - Adult 3.50, child (6-10 years) 2<<


rothenburg ob der tauberEvery street in Rothenburg ob der Tauber is lined with brightly painted houses.


Often when you finally visit a place you’ve long dreamt about, you are disappointed but my visit to Rothenburg surpassed even my lofty expectations. Whoever came up with the town’s motto, certainly got it right. It definitely is “Romantic but real!”


I can't wait to return.


Rothenburg rooftopsIt was worth putting aside my fear of heights to get this great view of the Rothenburg rooftops from City Tower.


Where is Rothenburg ob der Tauber?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is located in the German state of Bavaria. It sits at the crossroads of the Romantic Road and the Castle Road, 67 kilometres south of Wurzburg and 250 kilometres north of Munich.  You can read my tips for driving these scenic routes here:


How to get to Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Germany

By car

Arriving by car is the most popular and convenient way to reach Rothenburg ob der Tauber.  Use the following distances and travel times to help plan your trip:

  • Munich to Rothenburg ob der Tauber - 243 km / 2h15      

  • Frankfurt to Rothenburg ob der Tauber - 182 km / 1h50

  • Nuremburg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber - 80 km / 1h15


By bus

For those without a car, the Romantic Road Coach stops at the town daily enroute between Frankfurt and Fussen and vice versa.


By train

  • Daily train services operate between Wurzburg and Ansbach to Steinach where you change for a regional train to Rothenburg.  

  • It takes just over two hours by train from Frankfurt to Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

  • There is no direct Munich to Rothenburg ob der Tauber train. The journey takes around 2h:30 with changes required at Nurnburg, Ansbach and Steinach.  Click here for further details.


On an organised day tour

If you’d prefer to take an organised day tour by coach to Rothenburg, options are available from both Munich and Frankfurt.  These include:


There are more Rothenburg day tour options on this link.

>> TIP: Rothenburg ob der Tauber makes a great stopping point on a Romantic Road itinerary.  In this article you can read which other towns I recommend you visit on the Romantic Road. <<


Public parking in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The Old Town of Rothenburg is largely car-free however if you are staying inside the city walls you can drive to your accommodation to unload your luggage before parking your car.


There are numerous public car parks located just outside the city walls. Parking costs €1.20 per hour between 8am and 6pm and the ticket machines accept cards and coins.  Parking lots are well sign posted as you approach the Old Town.


rothenburg housesGreen, yellow, pink, blue ... the choice of house colour knows no bounds in Rothenburg!


Where to Stay in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Hotels

For my two night stay in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Hotel Herrnschlösschen, one of the luxury hotels in town was my choice. The hotel is situated right in the heart of the Old Town, just around the corner from the Town Hall. 


The 4* boutique hotel is housed in one of the town’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 11th Century. Luxuriously appointed rooms, a delicious a la carte breakfast and friendly staff made this a wonderful place to spend our night in Rothenburg. (Read my review of Hotel Herrnschlosschen.)


Click here to check prices for Hotel Herrnschlossen


If you’d prefer to stay elsewhere, there are plenty of other hotels in Rothenburg ob der Tauber to choose from.  Click here to browse more hotels in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.


Hotel Herrnschlosschen RothenburgHotel Herrnschlosschen is my pick of hotels in Rothenburg. Our room was beautifully appointed.


Apartments

On my second visit to Rothenburg (July 2019), I decided to stay longer than just overnight so that I could explore more of the Romantic Road.  We chose Landhaus Apartments just outside of Rothenburg for our week-long stay and loved it. 


You can read my review of the Landhaus Apartments on this link.


Where to Eat in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

There are a wide range of restaurants in Rothenburg ob der Tauber from cafes serving casual meals to more refined dining.


In fine weather, the lovely garden behind Hotel Schwan is a great option for a delicious lunch. Serving sizes are large.


Cafe Friedel has an excellent selection of Schneeballs and cakes, including the most delicious raspberry cake.


Hotel Reichskuchenmeister’s menu includes pizza, salads and meat dishes.  The outdoor terrace, which overlooks St. Jacob's Church, is popular in summer.


Ornate signs RothenburgOrnate signs decorate the streets of Rothenburg. ©Rothenburg Tourismus Service


Further reading:  If you are interested in exploring more towns along the Romantic Road, Fussen is a great place to start.  Click here to read my article about Fussen.


Rothenburg Tourism kindly provided my husband and I with free entry to the German Christmas Museum, City Tower and the Nightwatchman’s Tour.

 
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