Orvieto, UMBRIA

Orvieto in Umbria is situated in that wonderful, magical "green heart" of Italy, land of the saints, with its Etruscan treasures, Medieval hill-top towns, Renaissance piazzas and enduringly warm and generous people. 

There is no greater delight than walking through the medieval streets to chance upon a little church hidden away, around a corner,  where the “keeper” greets you warmly, anxious for you to understand even a little about the quiet treasures he guards, or to pass under an ancient archway that still breathes with the vibrations of all who have gone before and then, to come suddenly out on top of the ramparts, into the sunshine, into the stunning views across the valley with its olive groves and vines spread out across the landscape in a random green that seems endless.

The land of Umbria is a wonderful, picturesque, gentle landscape, for the most part undiscovered by large-scale tourism. It is an ancient land, settled in prehistoric times by the Umbri, and later, by the Etruscans. In 295 B.C., it was conquered by the Romans who then settled a number of colonies across the region constructing the Via Flaminia in 220BC, parts of which are still visible today. In the 15th century it fell to Papal rule and then, with events following the French Revolution, became part of the Roman Republic (1789-1799) and then part of the Napoleonic Empire (1809-1814). Finally, in 1861, it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy.

Orvieto: As the jewel sitting on the southwest corner of Umbria, Orvieto presents one of the most dramatic settings in Europe. This spectacular medieval town, built on Etruscan ruins, rises some 1500 feet from the floor of the Paglia River valley, atop the almost vertical faces of the tufa cliff surrounded with defensive walls and medieval houses made out of the same tufa rock. This magical hill-top town looks out across the gentle, rolling hills of one of Italy's best kept secrets, Umbria. It is perfectly situated in one of the acknowledged centres of traditional Italian maiolica ware, midway between Florence and Rome and boasts the magnificent 15th century Duomo with its glittering facade of mosaic tiles and the very special Capella di San Brizio with Luca Signorelli's famous, and incredible, frescoes.

Etruscan origins: That the city of Orvieto occupies an Etruscan site has been abundantly proven by the many tombs occupying the slopes around the city, some containing masonry, others Etruscan inscriptions both on the outer and inner walls — together with painted pottery, both of the archaic and pure Greek style — black ware with figures in relief, bronze figures, vases, and sundry domestic implements. Truly, no other inhabitant has made such a lasting and profound impact on this land nor left as many remains. Orvieto itself is a living archaeological site and the wonders spread far beyond the walls into the surrounding regions. Visits may be selected from within Orvieto to places such as Vulci and Tarquinia, amongst others but Orvieto itself boasts many sites and many possibilities for excursions, explorations and great discoveries of this mystifying and enigmatic, intelligent and skilful race.

Into the Middle Ages: The Middle Ages marked a succession of periods ranging from absolute destruction to a great economic flourishing. Needing very little in the way of exterior walls of defence the very particular geological characteristics of Orvieto's tableland also determined another of this city's specific features: the presence of more than 1,000 artificial caves dug into the tufa rock, below the city buildings. In the beginning and over the course of the centuries, the quarries provided tufa, travertine, sand and "pozzolana" (a type of porcelain), first for the Etruscan buildings and later for Medieval and Renaissance "palazzi". There are also several caves created in the search for the  storage and distribution of water but they were also used as stables, cattle sheds, colombariums (for breeding pigeons) and to store grain. In some cases there are clear signs of the activities the caves were used for; searchers have found caves used for rope making, furnaces, pottery, wine cellars and oil mills. There is also a particular type of cave, known as butti, used as garbage dumps; this great mark of civilization dates back to the Middle Ages and there are several such caves under each house, some that are open to the public but others that require a special introduction to the family before being given the special privilege of journeying back into the middle ages.

To the Renaissance and beyond: By far the dominant and most well known structure of the city is the magnificent Gothic/Renaissance cathedral, one of the great five in Italy. Even Dennis, who was writing his seminal work meant only to describe those things Etruscan, when faced with the most wondrous of all cathedrals, could not resist including a description in his text as, “its quaint bas-reliefs — its many-hued marbles — its mosaics gilding, warming and enriching the whole, yet imparting no meretricious gaudiness, — the entire façade being the petrifaction of an illuminated missal — a triumphant blaze of beauty obtained by the union and tasteful combination of the three Sister Graces of Art.” (The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria by George Dennis published by John Murray, Albemarle Street London, 1848: p.530).

Until the Sistine Chapel was completed some years later, the San Brizio frescoes stood as the greatest wonder. They had the hand of the best masters of the time beginning with Fra Angelico and his assistant Benozzo Gozzoli (later famed for his great narrative cycles) to the amazing work of Luca Signorelli. It is said that, once completed, Signorelli was exhausted of all inspiration and never completed another work like it. That the time from beginning to the completion of the cathedral took 350 years is a wonder in itself; generations would come and go, leaders rise and fall, condolences be given and ret  racted, wealth increase and subside and, amongst it all, the Renaissance would rise and burgeon as the greatest move forward in the history of art and humanism. This cathedral grew and lived through it all. It has a myriad of stories to tell; stories that give the character of the city and of its people that live there still, through the succeeding generations down to today. The names inscribed in the vaults and written in the archives live on in the modern day city.

Speciality wines and ancient vines: This is a land particularly suited to viniculture. The moderate climate and gentle rolling hills favour exposure to the sun which all contributes to the making of excellent Umbrian wines, produced by the wine growers of the region since ancient times using methods that are both simple and natural.

Four wine-roads have been identified that retrace these evocative routes with particular reference to the places where the named products originate: “Strada del Vino dei Colli del Trasimeno”, “Del Cantico”, “Del Sagrantino”, “Etrusco-Romana”. The geographic zone around Todi belongs to the “Strada del Vino del Cantico” where enchanting  villages and panoramic views open up from ancient Roman roads, from the Colli Martani and the wines of “Sangiovese Riserva” to the renowned “Grechetto di Todi”. This last was cited by the Roman historian, Pliny the Elder, writing in the 1st century BC in his Historia Naturalis , “ peculiaris est tudernis” (it is typical of Todi) referring to the particular vine which produces a dry white wine with a slightly bitter aftertaste. Alternatively, the zone of Orvieto belongs to the “Strada dei Vini Etrusco- Romana”.

The main route of these wine roads is divided between wine production according to the controlled denominations of origin of Orvieto and Amelia. Of these wines Orvieto is especially well known for its outstanding white wines of “Orvieto Classico” and “Orvieto Classico Superiore”, as well as the red wines, “Orvietano” and “Lago di Corbara”. Amelia is known for its white wines, “Colli Amerini”, “Malvasia” and also the reds of “Rosso Superiore”, “Rosato” and “Novello”.

Many of these specialist growers are willing to share their passion and their knowledge by providing courses designed both for professionals and for those who simply want to learn about Umbrian wines, tasting and growing the vines. These courses also include learning about appropriate food accompaniments. Some more comprehensive courses may be carried out directly with agricultural manufacturing companies, where it is also possible to stay during the course. Programmes may include visits to wine cellars in the local region with tastings of the local produce along with accompanying local food products. Wine tastings are guided by the wine steward or owner/producer of the cellar wines. These visits are accompanied with the aid of an English-speaking guide.

Slow food / great tastes: This country is also fortuitously suited to the growing of olives. It is a fertile hunting ground for the precious black truffle, produces the plumpest chestnuts, the absolutely best pork and wild boar products and the famous pecorino (sheep’s) cheeses, along with the ancient grains and legumes that are all turned into one of the most surprising and satisfying cuisines, simple yet fresh and full of flavour. There are year-round sagre or Food Festivals and the best ones are tucked away in hamlets and Medieval villages, typically celebrating a single dish prepared in the way of their ancestors. Food is such a passion for the Umbrian people that even a specialised, small pork sausage traditionally carried by hunters in their back packs as a convenient snack has earned the prestigious guarantee classification of the DOP (Cacciatorini DOP) normally only associated with wine and, more recently, with  olive oil.

The restaurants and trattorie that come highly recommended by Discovering Italy have all been carefully selected and all offer the best produce and dishes from the Umbrian kitchen. Meals are accompanied by local and national wines. The serv  ice-staff are always professional but also, at the same time, take every care to make you feel “a casa propria” (at home) in a pleasant and easy atmosphere so that you may enjoy the flavours and the ambience at your leisure. In addition, some restaurants will organize special suppers with a Medieval or Etruscan menu on request.

But really, there is no better way to discover the amazing city of Orvieto than by a guided walk through the medieval quarter, an area often missed by large group tours. What you will discover as you are guided through the streets of the modern day city is that you never lose touch with history; there are signs and sounds and sights everywhere. A journey off the rock provides a gentle exploration into the surrounding landscape that rolls around the Paglia River valley and introduces you to the very special wines, oils and other local produce that play such a significant role in defining the characteristics of the Orvietani and the pride they take in their long heritage of viniculture and olive oil production.

And yet, Orvieto is a much lived in, modern city, offering the best of every tradition while maintaining the charm and grace of an elder statesman. At Discovering Italy, we are certainly biased about this beautiful city because it is our home-base, but that bias is well founded and we love nothing more than to share the special secrets we have discovered over our long love affair with this city and its people.

Text and photos by Judith Greenaway of Discovering Italy

Visit Discovering Italy for more information and to book your holiday to Orvieto.

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